Just a stone's throw from Aqaba's public beach, after passing through a security gate, you enter the Rovers Return, a typically English pub, of which there are dozens across the Middle East. This autumn, Jordan's only coastal city is far less bustling than usual. This is down to the war in Iran, which began in February with the US-Israeli Operation Epic Fury, dealing a severe blow to local tourism. Normally, many Saudis happily cross the nearby border to drink their fill at the seaside bars.

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