Right in Tirana's city centre, opposite the Orthodox cathedral from where the voices of the male choir drift during service, the name of the building sheltered behind a line of trees is almost bucolic: the House of Leaves. The nickname comes from the ivy that climbs its faded walls. But the former maternity hospital, built in the early 1930s, has left scars that are still raw in Albanian memories.

From 1944 to 1991, the House of Leaves