On the River Ammer in the village of Oberammergau, a few kilometres from the Austrian border, Bems'l Music Bar & Grill, with its quaint Bavarian architecture, attracts a steady stream of international customers. Most are not there for a hike in the Alps or a dip in the thermal waters. This is a hotspot with military types, soldiers of all nationalities who are studying at the NATO School of Oberammergau (NSO) or the Bundeswehr (BiZBw) training centre, which is also nearby. Unsurprisingly, this concentration